My first visit to Kolkuós was on horseback on the first day of my first trek in Iceland in 2000. We had been riding on a winding trail overlooking the ocean and our herd of loose horses was driven down a road by some old deserted buildings until we were right by the ocean.
I could tell right then that it was special. While our horses grazed and the rest of the group chatted, I wondered alone around this abandoned “ghost farm”, peering through windows and doors, afraid to touch anything. I don’t think I even knew the name of the place. I certainly did not know anything about the famous horses from Kolkuós. The name seemed child-like. Kolkuós. At that time, we pronounced it Kolkos, rhymed with “focus”.
This is just the beginning of the story, an introduction to what is left of the farm “Kolkuós”. Here is how it was on my second visit in 2005. As you will learn, there was almost no story at all…
Right! “Completely here.” There is no better way of saying it.
This is one of my favorite things about Iceland: You are always standing on a story.
So, I am not the only one who felt something very special about Kolkuós.
Valgeir Thovaldsson worked for years to stop the proposed garbage dump and fuel depot from being “developed” on this very special site. He had a plan…
Some neighboring farmers in Skagafjörður pitched in and donated some young horses of the Kolkuós line.
The word has spread across the ocean…
Epilogue — so far:
I have not been back to Iceland for 10 years. I am thrilled to see that Valgeir has been able to restore the main house on the farm and that it is now open for guest accommodations. I think it would make a very special base on a trip to northern Iceland.